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Doral Chenoweth writes about the business of restaurants and the food industry in the Columbus, Ohio, Metro area. Reader comments are welcome by telephone.
614-538-1822.

Email the Grump: thegrumpygourmet@wowway.com

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06DEC2005





max and ermas Max & Erma's, yes, no, maybe.
Da Vinci’s safe, but May Have
Neighbors at Arlington Pointe

Street talk, market rumbles and just plain gossip have all sorts of things happening to one of the city’s solid restaurants, Da Vinci’s Ristorante at 4740 Reed Rd. One sure thing: Da Vinci’s is moving – but only a few feet from the present location.

Here’s the plan now in the works. Ruscilli Real Estate will be re-developing the site. Da Vinci’s will remain, but in a different and new building on the site. All this brings up the market rumbles element. Topping the list: Max & Erma’s will be moving to the site. Well, yes and no. M&E’s top boss, Todd Barnum, confirms talks about such a deal, but the numbers are not right. He does say he is looking in the city’s northwest sector.

Barnum has time on his side. One of the chain’s top performers is located at Kenny and Henderson roads. The late M&E founder Barry Zacks made that deal, and, apparently, a good one until the entrance was blocked off by a new Walgreens. To get that done, the city’s original T.G. F. Friday’s had to close. Barnum says the M&E lease doesn’t expire until late in 2007.

Also on the Da Vinci radar: The same family has just closed De Vinci’s Pronto at 18 Dillmont north of Worthington. The location was a stinker, but the concept built a catering following. The Pronto phone number still rings – 614-888-8618 – for catering calls and will be picked up. Orders are being filled at the original home plate, Da Vinci’s at Reed road, the phone there 614-451-5147.




gramercy logo

Craig Barnum’s Gramercy update
Gramercy Prime Kitchen and Wine Bar is slated to open April 1, 2006, “maybe sooner since we are on a fast track,” proprietor Craig Barnum says. The top gun for Tucci’s and Oscar’s Dublin has been pulling financing together for half a year to get the 150-seater open at the intersection of Polaris Parkway and Cleveland Avenue. He expects first-year sales to be $2 million plus. Chef-to-be Bradley Balch will do double duty as managing partner. Checks will average $40, which includes the wines.
gramercy rendering
Gramercy is to push the steaks, but the menu covers a wide range of goodies – many items familiar to regulars at Tucci’s and Oscar’s. For information call Barnum’s corporate office, 614-763-0062.



Bob Susi, Remembered
Robert “Bob” Susi, one of the brightest pictures in the history of Columbus restaurants, made his mark in the business for a number of reasons. His fine dining Fontanelle Restaurant in Graceland Shopping Center beat all the odds when it came to longevity. He sold it after 34 years and stepped away from the business.

Susi, who had been in ill health for some time, passed away November 26 at age 73 at Riverside Methodist Hospital.

Insiders, certainly the Columbus Health Department, remember that Susi set the standards for cleanliness and sanitation. He was known for what many close friends called his Saturday night after-hours shift. Once closed, his crew went to work cleaning every aspect of the kitchen – floor to ceiling. In the 1970s and 1980s health inspectors pointed to the Fontanelle as a how-to sanitation example.

While the Susi menu was heavy with Italian fare, his restaurant also ranked as a classy steakhouse. But, his close friends have another fond memory. The menu offered frog legs – fried or sautéed in garlic butter. He was one of the first restaurant operators in Columbus to use the phrase “dining experience” in describing his management style.



The World Wants to Know…
Ricky Barnes, the young gent with the rep for opening pleasing, quirky and successful eateries such as the original Galaxy in Powell, has disappeared from the restaurant radar.

After selling that business, Barnes took a New Mexico break, returned to Columbus and opened Lost Planet Pizza at 680 N. High St. Shortly afterwards and notching up good sales, he sold the place. It is now Betty’s Fine Foods. Anyone knowing – tell’m to report in.
  • Wiley Bates III, once top chef around town, report in.
  • Earl Bradley, long-ago proprietor of the original Place Upstairs, German Village, report in.


Gibby’s New Albany update
Ah, Lola and her fancy tea room fare has landed. Lola Iacobone, once owner and chef for Lola’s in Gahanna, has taken her recipes for quiche and cheesecake to Gibby’s New Albany Grill, 29 S. High St., Old New Albany. That’s the good news. The other sort – Lola bakes and serves her blackberry muffins, omelets, carrot cake, waffles, even a breakfast quesadilla, Sundays only.

Lola stuff available 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. in the restaurant space once housing Olivia’s. For information, tote outs and what’s baking, 614-775-0270.

by Doral Chenoweth
614-538-1822


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