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New Columns appear each Tuesday. 21MAR06 Doral Chenoweth writes about the business of restaurants and the food industry in the Columbus, Ohio, Metro area. Reader comments are welcome by telephone. 614-538-1822. Email the Grump: thegrumpygourmet@wowway.com Send food stuff here: iPLATE@grumpygourmetusa.com Send weird stuff here: alferd_e_packer@wowway.com E-mail messages must include name and telephone for a reply. |
![]() AMUSE-BOUCHE: In France this is an appetizer. In America's finest restaurants, amuse-bouche is presented upon being seated as a taste tickler for things to come. This was served as an opener to Handke's annual Dinner With the Masters. Photo by Elizabeth Johnston. |
21MAR06 Handke's 'Dinner With the Masters' Unique in USA Culinary Fabric Just for record and as a reminder, Master Chef Hartmut Handke's 16th annual Dinner With the Masters is scheduled for Monday, March 5, 2007. Time and tab to be announced. The just completed 15th Masters show drew nine certified master chefs, one a French master pastry chef, Frederic Monti, now with the Greenbrier Resort in West Virginia. Each prepared one dish. The 2006 experience also drew another Handke name to the 10-course menu - Susi Handke, now chef consultant to one of America's famed New York restaurants, Le Bernardin. Other chefs represented the Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, N. Y.; Medinah Country Club in Michigan; Station Casinos, Las Vegas; Schoolcraft College, Lavonia, Mich.; Pelican Isle Yacht Club, Naples, Fla.; and Mandalay Bay Resort, Las Vegas. Rather than describe each course, here's the description for the amuse-bouche (pictured) clockwise from the sake Oriental spoon with cured, wild King salmon in aspic; (top of platter) shaved veal loin tonnato with tuna emulsion on flat bread cracker; Saffron poached pear, prosciutto and gorgonzola on herbed cracker; (in shot glass) gazpacho gelee with brandade and air-dried chorizo; (closest to silver spoon) tuna tartare on gaufrettes pommes de terre; cherry wood smoked salmon on toasted brioche; and fried artichoke wrapped in grilled zucchini on Boucheron cheese. Do you think this gathering of masters has a fixed place in Columbus? Ask Elizabeth Johnston, Handke's events coordinator. "We haven't sent out the thank you letters yet and usually when we do we get the reservations for the next year coming in," she said. Her 2007 book is open. |
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Handke's Among Top Nominees There are all sorts of rating services in the restaurant business. There are legit ones and others. Fill in the blanks for the latter. Guide Michelin, published for EU nations and, most recently, a 460-page edition for New York City. The USA lacks such. However, the restaurant industry publications anoint the top dining venues. William Reed Publishing Ltd. London, compiles a guide to World's 50 Best Restaurants. Final selections are sifted through scores of returns submitted by working restaurant reviewers and writers. In the United States, writers were asked to submit votes for their two favorites in the US and three in Europe. The Grumpy Gourmet's ballot named two for the USA, Charlie Trotters, Chicago, and Handke's Cuisine, Columbus. His other three: Guy Savoy in Paris, The Connaught and River Club in London. Results will be known in mid-April. |
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Our Culinary Team is a Contender The city's five-member culinary team is one big step away from going for the national gold. After topping nine teams last week in Toronto, they compete July 14 in Philadelphia against teams from across the nation and Canada. In Toronto the team scored 36.8 points which is for the regional gold medal. A Johnson & Wales team scored 33.2 for silver. Cameron Mitchell Restaurant executive chefs Brian Hinshaw and Ian Rough head the local team composed of CSCC culinary apprentices, Amy Glaser, Olivia Giesler, Jonathan Basch, Gabriel Selbe and Mitchell Barr. |
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Why This Posting Was Delayed Monday is a writing day for weekly postings on this website. Monday this week forced a delay when a bogus posting relating to a top fine dining restaurant appeared on an AOL city website. The posting did not carry a name or an e-mail address of the sender. When called to the attention of the AOL City Scene representative in Columbus, she contacted the NYC AOL office. The offending message was removed immediately. Attorney and dining guide authority Harry Henning penned this note to the Grumpy Gourmet for going to the mat with AOL: "Congratulations for better defining the difference between free speech and outright anarchy." A footnote: AOL is being asked to identify the sender of the phony message. by Doral Chenoweth 614-538-1822 |
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